Photo: Leigh KempThe feminine curves and angular crests rise tantalizingly to almost 1,000 feet (305metres) - much higher than their nearest rivals in Arabia. They just beg to be climbed barefoot and the sheer size and immensity of the dunes dwarf your footprints. The older the dune, the brighter the color from slow iron oxidization and a zillion minute fragments of garnets. These dunes range from burnt orange through blood red to deepest mauve, and geologists say that this supreme desert could be the oldest in the world. In the Nama language, 'Namib' means 'vast', and the Namib Naukluft Park lives up to this reputation.It extends for about 300 miles (480km) along Namibia's coast and reaches deep inland. Contrary to appearances, an amazing variety of wildlife has adapted to live in this inhospitable place. There are lizards who only put two feet down at a time and a beetle who leans forward to make droplets of dew run down grooves in its body to its mouth. Apart from infrequent rains, these creatures rely on a regular sea mist that rolls far inland.Visiting this remote region takes some perseverance, as it is almost 200 miles (320km) from any main high road, so a fly-in safari is a good option. The trip is worth it as the solitude is immeasurable, and your place in the great scheme of life takes on a new perspective. The desert night sky is just awesome and you are guaranteed to see shooting stars every few minutes and satellites tracking a path across the heavens. Some lodges even have rooftop stargazing platforms for a night under the stars.