Namibia is unlike any other country in Africa, with vast and ancient landscapes and the world's oldest desert, the Namib, it also has the Big Game Africa is famous for.
Namibia is a vast land, a land where distances are not counted in turns in the road but in the space from horizon to horizon. When driving in Namibia I would mark a point in the road in the distance and take the reading on the speedometer. The miles would fly by on the clock but the distance would stretch into the soul. The longest single stretch of visible road I measured was more than eleven and half kilometers.
The seasons of Etosha are distinct - there is a rainy season and there is a dry season and it this dry season that defines the place. The heat is white and the dust greys the sky, herds gather at permanent waterholes to slake their thirst, the vegetation deteriorates into dust - and the predators lie in wait.
During the dry season the waterholes of Etosha, some natural springs and some man-made, attract countless animals. In fact it is not uncommon to see literally thousands of animals of more than ten different species in the vicinity of one waterhole at the height of the dry season.
The pan itself stretches as far as the eyes wander, melting into the horizon in a heat haze-tinged sky. There are the great African animal interactions but it is the space that calls the soul. The landscape is flat to the horizon with only a smattering of insels to break the sky and there is a place where the distance is broken by the Ondundozonanandana Hills.
The desert nights are accompanied by the ticking of thousands of barking geckos, a sound many find irritating - or overwhelming - but when these little creatures fall silent, as if on cue, the desert night takes on a new meaning. This is when the mind wanders into another realm.